Having completed the first trip of my railway vacation for 2023, I departed Sudbury on Sunday afternoon after getting off VIA Train 186 and started the drive north to Cochrane for a trip on the Polar Bear Express the next day. On the way, I caught CN Tarin 102 pounding south at Gogama (missed the head end, came around the corner and they were already in the level crossing on Highway 144). Then, after a dinner stop in Timmins and a visit to the future Northlander Station at Porcupine, which, while technically in Timmins, isn’t all that close to what I would describe as actually being Timmins. One hopes the re-instated Northlander when it comes to pass comes with a solid bus link into actual town, but I guess time will tell.




Entering the Arctic Ocean Watershed, actually in the North, CN Train 102 at Gogama, and the future Ontario Northland Porcupine Station site for the hoped for return of The Northlander.
For this leg of my trip, I was also staying at the Ontario Northland Railway’s Station Inn that is in the Cochrane Station, a very handy bit of intermodal for the ONR, and a throwback to the way railways used to do things, the signs at the station… Train-Bus-Sleep says it all.

MORNING IN COCHRANE
Waking up early as I seem to do, I took a pre-7am walk around, and nothing much seemed to be happening. So I made my way to the Station Café for breakfast. We had eaten here in September 2022 on a previous visit to Cochrane on a camping/road trip where we also stayed at the Station Inn. The food continued to impress. They only do breakfast and lunch, but I’ve now had three breakfasts there and all have been fantastic. They also sell takeaway items for those getting onto the train north or the busses south, very handy.






It is, quite clear that the ONR crews have marshalling the Polar Bear Express down to a fine art, they started to move at about 8am, and by 8:30 they had brought the coaches from the shops, collected their boxcars, collected the auto flats, and pulled up to the station for loading. A well-oiled machine, which they perfectly duplicated the following morning when I was watching before heading south.
Our northbound consist for “Mixed Train 421” as called on the radio following switching was as follows:
- 1809 – GP38-2, 9/1984
- 1808 – GP38-2, 9/1984 – “Every Child Matters”
- 100511 – Ex TOFC Flatcar in Car Carrier Service
- 100510 – Ex TOFC Flatcar in Car Carrier Service
- 100509 – Ex TOFC Flatcar in Car Carrier Service
- 7795 – ONR Boxcar
- 654 – Coach – Hawker Siddley, 1967, GO 4725
- 653 – Coach – Hawker Siddley, 1967, GO D700
- 651 – Coach – Hawker Siddley, 1967, GO 4728
- 750 – Dining Car – Hawker Siddley, 1967, GO 4723
- 660 – Coach – Hawker Siddley, 1967, GO 4706
- 416 – Baggage – Hawker Siddley, 1974, GO 9960
- 202 – F7B, 11/1951 (MILW 114B)
- 264 – ONR Boxcar
- 7737 – ONR Boxcar
- 7732 – ONR Boxcar













With the train all together and to the platform, I boarded for the trip north. I was seated in Coach 3 (653), Seat 9D. The seats are reserved at booking for the trip, no fighting for space or searching for it, though I initially managed to sit in my seat for the return trip. The ex-GO Transit coaches have been rebuilt and are set up for long-distance travel. The seats are well padded and spaced out. There are several permanent 4 blocks of facing seats, and the other rows are all designed to be spun, so they always face the direction of travel, or offer the ability to create additional four blocks if needed based on groups travelling. The seats have leg rests that in the four blocks, almost turn the facing seats into beds. The cars have lots of luggage room as well at the ends of the cars, along with behind seats and the overhead racks. This is of course supplemented by the baggage car and the boxcars hauling cargo for passengers. In another sign of the true intermodal nature of the service the ONR is providing, the bus to Cochrane arrived shortly after the train at the platform, and passengers quickly commenced moving baggage from the bus to the train, and onto the train to continue north. Seeing this in action really drives home the lifeline nature of the railway to Moosonee.








The train made an on-time departure at 0900 from Cochrane. On the trip up, it sounded like we were supposed to make a pickup at Otter Rapids, who no showed so we kept rolling to a stop at Mile 115. I took the time to tour the train, check out the dining car and the equipment. One coach was locked off for the ONR employees riding up. I noted the Service Manager, a trainee, two conductors who were working the switching in Cochrane and the on-board security guard coming and going from the locked off car on the trip up. There is a lot of work happening along the line right now, there was a lot of chatter with foremen for clearances and obvious signs of bridge work at several locations with equipment and work camps set up. Despite all this, with no opposing trains, we by my watch made a 1-minute early arrival at 1359 against a 1400 scheduled arrival into Moosonee. Before passengers even had time to get off it seemed, the train was split, and the crew was spotting the flat cars for unloading at the ramp and the boxcar that wasn’t coming home at the freight dock. As we pulled in, the dedicated freight train power was sitting on the siding next to the station. It had preceded us up the line in the dark.





Scenes from the northbound run, landscapes, stumps of old hydro poles by new, bigfoot and the Moose River.
THREE HOURS IN MOOSONEE
Our 1359 one-minute early arrival by my watch afforded me about 2:45 in Moosonee before the doors would start closing for the trip south according to the Service Manager, so I had time to accomplish the few tasks I wanted to do. I wanted to check out the Northern Store, walk around town a bit, mail some postcards (they have started arriving), sadly it seems Canada Post doesn’t postmark things “Moosonee” anymore…booo to them!! I walked around town, it is a dusty place at this time of year. None of the roads are paved, the only paving I saw was sidewalks on the main street, and the two bridges across Store Creek (one paved, one timbered/dirt). I have the sense from my walk around, that I was the only person on the train who was a tourist, everyone else was clearly a local based on their being met at the train and that I didn’t see any other lost looking people wandering around with cameras during my time there!










Scenes from Moosonee, Churches, boats taking people and goods across the Moose River to Moose Factory, The Northern Store, the new Super 8 Motel, the baggage car museum and a view up the main street.
THE TRIP SOUTH
Unsurprisingly, most of the equipment going south as train 622 was the same as that coming north, with a slightly different order:
- 1808-1809 – As NB except order reversed
- 100507 – Ex TOFC Flatcar in Car Carrier Service
- 100512 – Ex TOFC Flatcar in Car Carrier Service
- 100508 – Ex TOFC Flatcar in Car Carrier Service
- 7791 – ONR Boxcar
- 7732-7737-264-202-416-660-750-651-653-654-7795 – As NB except order reversed





Another bang on time departure at 1700 and we were rolling south. As soon as tickets were checked, I made my way to the dining car to get something to eat and a beer. Given the short time afforded in Moosonee, I did not attempt to get food. I honestly kind of wish I had planned my trip to spend a night there, but most of the other railfanning things I wanted to do back down south (though still north of home) on Tuesday and Wednesday only worked if I did the train up and back in a day.


For the trip south, it seemed we had two booked stops, one at Toziers (SP? Not in Trackside guide). Stop at 1832 which put us between Moose River and Onakawana, and at Fraserdale. The Fraserdale stop was an adventure. Approaching they saw a guy and a truck who clearly was waiting on them, but not at the stop, slowing to a stop, a clearly annoyed crew on the radio eventually, after overshooting him and stopping, decided that they were not backing up and would proceed to the correct stop, and the guy could figure it out for themselves. As we slowly pulled up to Fraserdale, the pickup and trailer from the crossing was observed racing along the road adjacent to the tracks to the correct drop-off location for a group with a couple of boats and a lot of cargo.




Southbound scenes, Otter Rapids Hydro Dam, pickup trucks and drop-offs in Fraserdale.
Following us down the line was the three times a week freight to Moosonee. Hearing the crew of the passenger allow the freight to come down the line behind it was interesting old school railway operations. No signals, so the freight can only proceed as far down the line as the mixed ahead of them deems safe. We had an uneventful rest of the trip down, arriving at Cochrane at 2202, two minutes late. With no other trains on the line, the Polar Bear Express seems to be able to keep it schedule much better than other passenger services, as it is not subordinate to the freights. The freight arrived around 2315, or just over an hour behind the passenger train coming down the line. Just enough time for me to find some dinner from the limited late night options in Cochrane. Near as I could tell, Tim Hortons, A&W and Little Caesars in the Esso were the choices. I decided on A&W, which closed for a weeks renovations on the day I was there, and didn’t want Tims, so I settled for a pizza picnic in the back of the hatchback while waiting on the freight.




Full Gallery of the days shots: https://www.flickr.com/photos/55976115@N00/shares/1affme4P8f
RELATED THOUGHTS
The railway to Moosonee has a complicated history. At the south end of the station is a Cairn to the “Sons of Martha” and the railway builders of Harry Falconer McLean, an interesting contrast to the “Every Child Matters” paint scheme on ONR 1808 behind it in my pictures. My friend and fellow Toronto Railway Historical Association volunteer Thomas Blampied completed his PhD in History at the University of Toronto in 2022, writing on the complicated history of the construction of the Ontario Northland Railway and its impacts on Indigenous communities. I started reading it on the trip south from Moosonee. While it is an academic paper, Thomas clearly wrote with a mind that non-academics would be interested in this work, and I think it would be worth at least a perusal by any railfans out there. I look forward to completing reading it in the coming weeks as time allows. You can access it via the University of Toronto website here: https://hdl.handle.net/1807/125081

My takeaways are a new appreciation for how hard life is in the north of this country. Going into the Northern Store and seeing food prices makes me feel shame at the food that sometimes gets wasted here in our house as despite rising costs, it doesn’t really impact us. At the prices up there, you waste something, there is a risk people living in poverty in isolation don’t eat. This is before you consider many of those riding the train with me were doing so as it is the only way for them to access medical services or work, to leave home in the north and go south. That makes it a true “lifeline” despite the intentions of the original builders to bring “civilization” to the north, it provides a link that brings almost everything Moosonee, Moose Factory and the even more isolated places to the north like Attawapiskat that are only accessible by land via Ice Roads in the winter or barges in the summer.
My random railway thought is that I am in love with the ONR Hot Box Detectors. They are talkative, and announce themselves when the train first trips them, then go through their report after it has cleared. I did laugh though as it took me a couple of detectors to reconcile their train report with my consist notes. It counts the 2nd locomotive as a car, which makes sense for an automated device, so their announcing 15 cars when my mind kept saying “but its 14 cars and 2 locomotives” gave me a laugh when I figured it out. My life goal is now to have CN and CP re-program their detectors in the south to both announce when a train trips them and then the report after its passed. Extra warning for railfans when trains are close vs. just the post train report!
BONUS RUNNING
Since I obviously can’t shoot a train I am riding, before I started my way south on Tuesday morning, I again caught the Polar Bear Express, both the crew working in the yard, and the departure at Mile 5 on the Island Falls Subdivision, as far on the worsening dirt roads as I felt like taking my car and which wasn’t too far to try and catch up to other ONR trains working further south.


A mixed train in 2023, long may the Polar Bear Express continue to run and offer mixed train service with freight and passengers going north and south.
CONCLUSION
Another Ontario “Bucket List” rail trip done. I have decided that it is time to do the trips I’ve always wanted to do since I was a kid reading train books. While the Polar Bear Express has changed a lot and has a very different character in the spring vs. the winter adventure, I’m very glad I’ve done it. If I were doing it again, I think I would definitely want to spend a night in Moosonee to have more time to look around, and support some of the local businesses by eating in town.
